Times change. Today there are no deer, and siltage has moved the seacoast far from the town. Because of the different political systems on either side of the Taiwan Straits, no direct trade or transportation has been possible for half a century. But the evidence of Lukang's glory days still remains, and visitors today find ample evidence of a lively history and a thriving Taiwanese culture that is firmly rooted in the time-honored traditions of early immigrants from Fukien.
When you arrive in the center of Lukang after a 35-minute ride along the nondescript highway that leads from Changhua, just south of Taichung in central Taiwan, you immediately sense the energy of the place--the kind of energy you feel in Shanghai or any of a thousand market towns along China's east coast. Modernization has taken its toll here, but many of the buildings have remained since the Japanese departed at the end of World War II after a colonial occupation that lasted 50 years.
Lukang features some of Taiwan's most spectacular temple carvings and architecture. The colorful ceiling of Lungshan Temple(right) is an excellent example.
Going Back in Time
A good place to start your tour of the town is the Lukang Folk Arts Museum (鹿港民俗文物館), just a short walk from the bus station. This striking Japanese colonial structure, built in 1920, was once the home of the Koo family, among Taiwan's largest landholders at the time.
Koo Chen-fu (辜振甫), son of the builder and chairman of the Taiwan Cement Company, donated the building and much of its contents for use as a museum. Its doors were opened to the public in 1973.
Most of the museum's collection consists of artifacts of daily use--furniture, handicrafts, clothing, jewelry, Chinese curios, and the like. Although small, the museum is intensely interesting. It is the kind of place where just about everyone can find something to like. I was particularly taken by the display of the "four treasures of the Chinese studio"--brush pen, inkstone, ink, and paper, along with paperweight, bamboo penholder, and a porcelain wrist support "for use in the summer to prevent perspiration from smudging the paper being written on."
Also included in this section of the museum, which is devoted to literary objects, is a Ching dynasty (1644-1911) imperial decree written in both Chinese characters and Manchurian script. The latter must have been as alien to the Chinese people as were their Manchurian overlords themselves.
The Lukang Folk Arts Museum is open all year round except for Chinese New Year's. Its entrance fee is NT$130 (about US$5).
Lukang is famous for arts and crafts, and many artisans such as Wu Duen-how have been granted the Living heritage Award.
Enduring Spirituality
From the museum, walk up to Chungshan Road, and turn left. Go right at Sanmin Road to Lungshan Temple, one of the town's two most important temples and one of the best examples of classic Chinese architecture in Taiwan. This is a large temple, well-preserved, and is truly impressive in its design and its ornate carvings and paintings. The ceiling is a
particularly outstanding piece of craftsmanship. In addition to the architecture and the art work, some of which is around 350-years-old, this is an excellent place to observe the people of Taiwan worshipping one of their most beloved deities: Kuanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy.
Another outstanding place to watch people at worship is the other of Lukang's two main temples: Tienhou (Queen of Heaven) Temple (天后宮), located at the north end of Chungshan Road. The host deity here is Matsu, Goddess of the Sea, who is held in special reverence by fishermen and sailors. The constant hubbub in the temple and around its entrance gate reflects the popularity of Matsu. A ceaseless flow of worshippers fill the main hall, offering incense to the goddess and praying for her help.
For an example of just how lively a Taiwan temple can be, try coming here at the time of Matsu's birthday celebration on the 23rd day of the third lunar month (usually in April or May on the Gregorian calendar).
In the vicinity of Chungshan Road between Lungshan Temple and Tienhou Temple are most of the other noteworthy sights in Lukang: the quaint, narrow Nine-turns Lane (九曲巷), Half-sided Well (半邊井), and Old Market Street (古市街), as well as a number of smaller, less prominent temples that are nevertheless well worth a visit. There is also the Wenkai Academy (文開書院-)--a temple, shrine, and school rolled into one.
The Lukang Folk Arts Museum offers in-depth insights of Taiwanese history.
Among the other shops on this street where you can see masters in action are the Wu Duen-how Lantern Shop and the Wan-neng Tin Shop. These are places where handicraft approaches true art.
While not as well known as its handicrafts, Lukang's cuisine is not to be missed. A number of good restaurants are situated on or near Chungshan Road. Oysters are a local specialty, and delicious oyster omelets (蚵仔煎) and oyster soup (蚵仔湯) are served up at the entrance to Tienhou Temple. Another local delicacy is ox tongue cake, a pastry with a sweet filling that is named for its shape rather than its ingredients. These cakes are best eaten hot off the griddle. The town also has large numbers of bakeries offering fresh pastries, crispy snacks, and glutinous rice cakes.
Despite Lukang's former status as a major harbor, getting to the sea from the town today is no easy matter unless you have your own transport. To get there on foot--a long trek--continue down the road past Tienhou Temple. On the way to the water, you will pass open country and oyster farms.
While Lukang has undergone tremendous changes over the past three centuries, not least being the disappearance of its harbor, it remains a prosperous and bustling community thriving off its historical associations and living cultural heritage. For visitors traveling through central Taiwan, it is an attraction not to be missed.
For more information, contact the Lukang Cultural Foundation at Tel: (04) 778-0096.
Getting There
Direct buses to Lukang depart every hour from Taipei's Chengteh Road, just north of the Taipei Railway Station (United Highway Bus Corp., 統聯客運) Or, take a bus or a train to Changhua, just south of Taichung, and catch a bus to Lukang behind the Changhua Railway
Station. Ride the bus to the last stop, which is near Tienhou Temple. The trip takes 35 minutes and costs NT$35 (US$1.30).