The Chienkuo weekend jade market (建國假日玉市), which lies under the freeway overpass at the intersection of Chienkuo South Road (建國南路) and Jenai Road (仁愛路) in east Taipei, is a scene to behold on Sundays. On a day when the rest of the city is at its most peaceful, there is bustling activity in the elongated market. Hundreds of jade-laden tables with their proprietors sitting close by are sifted through by a steady stream of shoppers intent on finding that special piece of jade. The whir of fans, a steady hum of voices, and demure lighting create a pleasant atmosphere that comes as a welcome respite from the traffic, which still thunders past on the busy fairways running parallel to the market on either side.
Jade markets are popular throughout Taiwan--and all over Asia, for that matter. One shopper summed it up nicely when she said, "Simply put, the Chinese people are crazy about jade." Although most people would agree with her, she was only partially correct. Take a look around the Chienkuo market on Sunday and you'll see more than just a handful of foreign faces. It seems many Westerners have taken a fancy to jade, as well.
One of the World's Biggest Jade Markets
The Chienkuo jade market was founded 10 years ago by former Taipei City mayor Hsu Shui-teh. His aim was to centralize the jade trade and bring sellers from around the island into one vast weekend market in aipei. In the early days it had about 200 vendors. Today that number has more than quadrupled and the market hosts around 900 stall-holders.
Many of the traders once conducted their business in the smaller Kuanghua market (光華商場), which now makes its home on the narrow tree-shaded lane off the intersection of Pateh (八德路) and Hsinsheng South Roads (新生南路). Actually, both markets sell a very similar array of old and new jades in an astounding variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. The main difference between the two is that Kuanghua is now in a quieter, smaller setting by comparison to Chienkuo and is open all week, though it is most active in the mornings.
To be fair, Chienkuo is not only bigger than Kuanghua, it is also one of the largest jade markets in the world. Chances are that if you can't find it there, it does not exist. Most of the sellers travel the island on weekdays selling at other jade markets or collecting for their weekend exhibits in Taipei. The goods on display at the Chienkuo market are the final products of artists from Taiwan, Hong Kong, mainland China, and Indochina. The quantity of jade is staggering. Aside from every conceivable type of bracelet, necklace, earring, or ring imaginable, browsers and buyers can find anything from a small cigarette holder to a three-foot-tall, intricately carved statue of Buddha.
Something for everyone-jade ornaments are
displayed alongside pottery teapots.
Superstitions Abound
In the Chinese mind, jade is much more than just a pretty gemstone, and many people visit the markets for unlikely reasons. Of course, most people come to buy gifts and others to stockpile pieces for their collection, but a few come with strong ideas concerning the mystical powers of the multi-hued mineral. These superstitions are directly connected to the value of certain pieces,
he theory being that, if a piece of jade "likes" a person it will take on a deeper tint, and over time
become more valuable. But if it "dislikes" the owner it may become pale, break, and actually cause harm to the wearer. Such beliefs in the supernatural powers of jade are understandable when you realize that jade was an important part of traditional Chinese funerary practices and that many of the pieces of antique jade on sale at the markets may have been buried with the deceased to protect against evil.
The jade sellers themselves have their own superstitions--or more accurately a fear of other people's superstitions--which often affect their sales. One fear in particular, they say, is justified. That is the fear surrounding "Ghost Month"--the seventh month of the lunar year, which usually falls around August and September, when Chinese people believe the spirits of the dead have been released from the underworld to wreak havoc on the unsuspecting. This is a particularly bad period for business. "People are very cautious when it comes to buying anything during this time," said one stall owner. "They are unsure about what sort of accident may befall them at the hands of a ghost. Would you buy something if you thought the next day had a high possibility of being your Black Monday?"
Outside ghost month, however, most jade dealers at Chienkuo say that business is pretty steady and has improved over time, with the market gaining a better reputation as one of the world's best.
This increased recognition has also made the market a good place not only to buy jewelry or browse, but also to enjoy the endless entertainment that people-watching can bring. Unlike any cultural show or educational class, an hour or two spent at the jade market provides an insight into Chinese society that money just can't buy.
The jade market is open every weekend on Saturday afternoons and all day Sunday, and also on public holidays. Toursts can also visit the flower and bood markets, which are located just down from the jade market under the Chienkuo elevated expressway.
Copyright 1995 Vision International Publishing Co.